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India Tours » Himachal Pradesh » Mountaineering

Mountaineering Expedition Deo Tibba

Location : Located at Dhungan Nalla and Malana glacier .

Height : 6001 mts.

Grid reference : 77. 23 E- 32.12 N  

Mountaineering Expedition Deo Tibba, Himachal ToursRoute : Manali- Jagatsukh- Khanol- 2480 mts., Khanol – Chikka- 3160 mts. , Chikka – Seri- 3620 mts., Seri- Tenta- 4070 mts., Tenta- C1- 4500 mts., C1- C2- 5200 mts., C2- Peak- 6001 mts- C1, C1- BC- Chikka- Jagatsukh- Manali

Status :
First ski down in 1975 and climbed by many teams via dhugan col as well as via Malana glacier

Grade of Climb: (a) Difficult climb, (b) Climbers should have the knowledge of snow, ice and rock climbing techniques.

Duration : Two to three weeks

Season : May to October

Equipment :
( a) Camping equipment upto base camp will be provided,

(b) Camping & technical equipment beyond base camp to be arranged,

(c) Personal equipment to be brought by climbers

Food :
(a) Food upto base camp will be arranged,

(b) Food for higher camps to be arranged by the climbers

Transportation : Manali to road head (Jagatsukh)& back to Manali will be provided Porters/Mules Manali to base camp and back Guide. The experienced guide familiar with the area as per necessary requirement will be provided

Medical : Only first aid will be provided upto base camp . Insurance To be arranged by the climbers

Communication : Communication facilities will be provided from Manali to base camp

Rescue : The rescue cover will be provided by land route, in case of emergency helicopter evacuation can be made available on special request and the expenditure be based on actual cost.
Deo Tibba is a beautiful 6001metre high peak situated in the Pir Panjal range of mountains in the Manali area in Himachal Pradesh. Deo Tibba consists of an extensive ice cap the actual climb being a snow hump accessible once the edge of the ice plateau is reached. It also has the beauty of being just over the 6000 metre high mark which is a great achievement for any climber.

Trekking to Base Camp :
Jagatsukh village just 6 kms from Manali is the road head for the trek to base camp. It is a 3 or 4 day approach walk to base camp depending on where base camp is established. One possibility for base camp is located near a glacier lake called "Chandra Tal" close to the main glacier that falls off the south-east face of Deo Tibba. This is at an altitude of 4500m/14850ft. It is quite a high base camp and depending on the rate of acclimatization, the base camp may be set lower at around 4070m/13430ft. This will mean the camp at the Col that is spoken about below becomes Camp Two with Camp One at 4500m/14850ft.
Moving on to Camp One at Duangan Col ( Duangan Pass ) the route crosses the Deo Tibba Glacier and takes a steep slope of between 45 and 55 degrees for around 300 metres. The climbing is mixed on snow, rock and ice to cover this portion of the climb to the Col (pass). For safe travel ropes will need to be fixed for most of this section.
After reaching Duangan Col Camp One can be set at the Col , or a little further on at the base of some more technical ground known as the Pitton Ridge. The Col is generally preferred but also depends on the prevailing conditions at the time.
Many climbers make a direct ascent from this high camp to the summit via the Pitton Ridge which faces east. The ridge is quite steep and again requires fixed rope for safe travel for around 150 metres. Soon after climbing the rock of the Pitton Ridge you move onto the snow field. From this point on Deo Tibba and its neighbour Indra San are visible and for climbers moving at a good pace it is only an additional two hours from this point onwards following the left side of the upper glacier. Because of deo Tibba's giant snow dome covering it is a relatively easy final ascent with few crevasses to negotiate. The slope steepens to around 50 degrees just below the summit for about 50 metres.

The summit itself is quite a wide expanse able to accommodate all climbers.

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